Zentraleck, Zentralstrasse, Zurich

Thunfischsashimi mit gebratenem Lattich

Kalbskotlette mit Gemüse und Kartoffelstock im Filoteig

Grüner Spargel mit Parmesanchip und pochiertem Ei

Schokoladenmousse mit Greyezer Doppelrahm

The Zentraleck has changed hands again and is now run by the former Idaburg proprietor. Two small changes, the blackboard has been removed and a bit of new tapestry was added to the white walls. The menu looked rather interesting and I went for a Tuna Sashimi with lettuce. A very nice dish, the sauteed lettuce really came through and matched nicely with the soy /sesame combination. Now unfortunately instead of bringing me my second appetizer, I was served the main course right away. The presumably austrian waiter excused profoundly and offered a dessert. Nevertheless the veal was nicely done, the vegetables decent but I don’t like the idea of putting mashed potato in rolls of filo dough. Some chefs like the idea, I think it’s tacky and detracts from the mash. I was still okay with getting my second appetizer, the asparagus with a poached egg. Not much to complain on the asparagus, but the egg should be runnier (I actually agree with the Tagesanzeiger). The dessert (a chocolate mousse) was on the house (due to the mixup with the courses), not bad but not quiet as good as my mother’s. Personally looking at the review from the Tagesanzeiger somehow the critic from the Zueritipp was frustrated and ripped the place apart. Comparing it to the previous Stefs Zentraleck, it lacks the elegance of the menu and the perfect execution, as well as the service being cooler and less charming. Still ranting about a check of 220 CHF (including a 85 CHF bottle of wine) like the Tagesanzeiger is simply vindictive. Prices are not cheap, but normal for a place of this caliber:

Rechnung