The Restaurant, Grand Hotel Dolder, Zurich

Dec
2010

07. December 2010

Ei mit Trüffel

Amuse bouche with fish

Bread and four types of spreads

Amuse bouche Suppe

Warmer Fisch

Amuse bouche Fleisch

Dessert

What is true joy? Walking into the Restaurant at the Dolder, realizing your the only one in the room, being shown to a table where you can see the Glarner Alps and the Uetliberg plus upon request being handed a NZZ to complement the Blick. Having a flat in Zurich (and so far not having been ejected by a certain female companion over a different understanding of tidiness) I’ve no idea what it is to stay in a hotel in Switzerland’s biggest city. But looking at the dining room at the Restaurant, I’m sure it’s a seriously nice experience. I’ll cut right to the chase, still on holiday and having started my day with a run in the early morning, followed by a rerun of Frauentausch, I treated myself to a Gin Tonic. Now I’m not sure if modern sports medicine has caught on to the trend of Gin Tonic after exercising, but it makes you feel great. Such is the destiny of living on the border of scientific avantgarde. Being not short of time I opt for the five course amuse bouche menu. The amuse bouche to the amuse bouche menu had a very memorable egg with truffles, I was thrilled and the waiter brought me a second one, since he sensed my enthusiasm. Call me bribable or a sucker for freebies, I call it excellent services. As always in these places a selection of bread was presented together with four different spreads. The best one was the most simplistic, pure organic butter, layered finger thick on a still warm piece of bread. To be honest, It doesn’t make sense to list every tidbit served, it’s a fun way of dining, receiving three little intricate dishes with every course for you to taste and try. Personally I’m not a big fan of the sweet orgy which follows after the savoury dishes. Interesting was the red wine ice cream which was served towards the end. Noteable mention were the two gentlemen entering for lunch themselves in the middle of my meal. One of the “blokes” was wearing a track suit…. It seems I wore a suit for nothing…. The other negative thing was, that they serve Hildon mineral water – very tacky to import water with an abundant supply available locally. Of course it was over the top for a lunch in terms of price. If you figure the work that goes into the food, the level of service, quite frankly the 98 CHF for the menu is good value, and if you stick to tap water you won’t rack up something like this:

Rechnung

10 Comments

  1. OK, this is the first time in a while you’ve really made me envious 🙂 Almost worth organising another Schulung in Zurich just to get a stab at this one … 😉

  2. Don’t you think Dolder is a bit of an overkill? The first time I went I was highly impressed but the second time I decided to never go back again.

    If you order a tasting menu you receive about 7 courses… each course comprising of somewhere between 6-10 components…Most diners won’t have a clue what half the ingredients are. You also receive 8 types of bread and 4 types of butter during the meal, You recieve 4 types of fingerfood when you arrive and 2 amouse bouche and another 4 types of mignardise after dinner.

    5 course amouse bouche lunch?? sounds like a nightmare to me! 🙂

    The food is excellently made and probably the best in Zürich but I find the dining experience dissapointing …my opinion is that they are trying to hard

    Because of this huge selection the portions are small so if you like something or are wonering what that “taste” was?… well too bad! that little fork full was all your going to get.

    • To me that’s the difference between listening to James Last and Miles Davis. In a bar James Last is great, but if you’re concentrating and want to challenge your brain, Miles is the way to go.
      I do agree however, that it can get somewhat tiring, especially if after 5 savoury courses an orgy of sweet dishes and friandises is kicked off.

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  4. Hello, you may not recall but do remember how long the amuse bouche tasting was? I ask because I am interested in this menu but have an appointment at 2:15 and wonder if an hour and 45 minutes would be enough time to allot. Thanks for your time. I enjoyed your review and the pictures are helpful.

    • Hi Paul I don’t remember! But I am sure (since this is a restaurant in a 5 star hotel) if you call them they’ll be able to hustle it along.

      • I assumed so too but wanted an outsider’s opinion. Thanks for the feedback. Now that it has been a few years how do you look back on the experience? Has it grown in your estimation or diminished? I appreciate your taking the time for me. I’m a New Yorker and will be in Zurich for only about 24 hours and want to make it count.

        • 24 hours is a tough one! But at the high end – Dolder is still number 1 in my opinion.

          • The other restaurant I had in mind for the night previous to the Dolder possibility is Sihlhalde Smolinsky, just out of town. Do you know of this restaurant (1 star Michelin)? If so, I would take heed of what you had to say of it. Also, if you know of an informal lunch spot or place to buy best examples of market foods (so that I can cook and prepare foods myself) and wine, I would be still more thankful to you. From Zurich we’ll be going to Lucerne and the Bernese Oberland where I am uncertain I’ll have the selection of Zurich.

  5. sent you an email to your address

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