Funkes Obstgarten, Kantonsstrasse, Freienbach
Mar
2011
One of the biggest food writing publications is the Gault Millau, named Tobias Funke from Funkes Obstgarten the Swiss German Newcomer of the Year. Having made good experiences with a place in Chardonne, I decided to have a look. Now Freienbach is well known for being an anemic town, which attracts tax dodgers from all parts of the world at the cost of a functioning society. As with most serious dining establishment a flurry of different courses make up the menu. It’s a thursday night and the restaurant is pretty packed. First course is a quail with a cauliflower puree. The puree was too sweet and threw the dish off balance. A scallop declination was up next, with different preparations. I have a weakness for foam and the sliced scallop was a nice play. The soup in the test tube was forgettable. Next up was a small disaster. Some lamb with a crunchy covering, served on ravioli with a broth. Now even though each of the components was nice, what happens if you add milk to rice krispies ? They get soggy. There was too much broth in the plate and the lamb crust soaked it up. The best dish was a piece of sea bass, served on top of a grilled pineapple, it worked and was surprising. On the young pork and gnocchi, the sauce once again had a sweet undertone to it. At least on the following dessert the sweetness was adequate. For once I was glad that a frugal friend of mine accompanied me to dinner. When I asked wether he wanted a small (2cl) or regular (4cl) digestif he opted for the small one. Since the small rowan berry (Vogelbeere) schnaps set me back 26 CHF, I was lucky he didn’t go for the larger one. Overall I was slightly disappointed. The quality of the food wasn’t what I expected from the rookie of the year and not what I was looking for in 16 Gault Millau points. Also a nuisance is the sommelier, his bigger than life attitude and false italian coolness is offputting and unprofessional. Prices are steep:
30/09/2011 at 15:04
try again! The obstgarten is an enrichment for freienbach. give him a chance and visit him again
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