Restaurant Frohsinn, Hedingen, Zürich

The Restaurant Frohsinn is located in a nice old house with red wooden beams. There’s a garden out back which looks nice as well (was too cold to sit outside) and is well shielded from the road. I head inside and get a table in the – what I felt – was rather small dining room. The amuse bouche were plentiful, the best one being the small bite of tartare with a caper apple.

My first dish was a serving of fresh morels with a mille-feuille pillow. The morels were expertly cleaned, showing no traces of sand but I felt that the sauce had an overpowering alcoholic taste. Either too much Cognac was used or it wasn’t cooked off properly. The Pizzocheri Neri were covered in a generous heap of cheese and decorated with a bit of savoy adding crunch and a textural contrast. The lamb racks were served with a herb mustard crust and came with some Capuns. I thought the crust was a bit aggressive and distracted from the lamb, the capuns were obviously homemade but might have profited more from being served separately.

I finished my meal with four bits of cheese, as always without any distractions. The Frohsinn clearly qualifies as a Landgasthof and does a good job of it. I’m looking forward to trying out the garden on a nice sunny Sunday.