Riviera Enoteca con Cucina, Dufourstrasse, Zurich

Change is common thing in life and in the culinary scene in particular. Old places close, new ones open and others are revitalised. If you ever want to see how this is done the right, the Riviera Enoteca con Cucina (former Riviera Hornbächli) on Dufourstrasse is the place to visit. Maintaining the patina of the restaurant, while slightly modernizing is something of an art. A lot of money goes into interior design at many new restaurants which fail to look as good and welcoming as the Riviera Enoteca con Cucina. But enough revelling about appearances, just like with females we’re only interested in the true inner values, after all this is a serious dining blog and not just a shallow restaurant critique venture.
The menu is very classic italian with a small tasting menu if you’re in the mood for it. First was a delicate fennel salad with black olives. A good and refreshing way to start a meal. The (homemade) Sepiatagliolini with cozze & zucchini were a strong progression of the menu, the only slightly confusing touch where the tomato slivers added for color. Main dish were pork cheeks with polenta and cima di rape. Excellent meat, cooked tender and lots of flavor, some more sauce to go with the Polenta would have been nice. Not so light but simply perfect was the Tiramisu to end the meal. Simple, excellent products which are expertly prepared is how the kitchen can be summed up at the Riviera.
I was contemplating wether to mention it or not, since I fear it has the chance to be a hit and draw crowds, lessening my chance of getting a seat. The place doubles as a wine shop and has a dedicated room in the back. Any wine can be bought to go, consumed in the back room (enoteca) or have it served at a table for a “Zapfengeld” of 15 (enoteca) or 30 (restaurant) swiss francs. The back room sports a dark wood floor a sturdy table for 10 & lovely metal wine racks showing the goods. Why am I comfortable mentioning it ? Because I’ve already secured my reservation for a christmas event at the back room so “Après moi, le déluge”. Prices are fair for the quality of the food and I like the fixed “Zapfengeld” for the wines.