Beiz, Zweierstrasse, Zurich

Short names seem to be in, with a similar crew as in the former “Lade” now the Beiz opened it’s doors in Wiedikon. The former Buescion has been replaced and the interior is lovely. Truly something which you’d expect out of a modern Beiz. Glancing over the counter they even offer BFM beer on tap and it gets even better. The menu has ony a few items and almost all of them sound great. I haven’t been to many places where the first impression was this good!

First dish was an appetizer consisting of sweetbreads, tongue and bone marrow served on spring vegetables. It was an okay dish. The taste of the vegetables where slightly muddied, here less would have been more and I would have prefered a chunkier piece of tongue.

As an intermezzo we tried the vegetarian Maultaschen (german dumpling). The South Germans would also call these “Herrgottbescheisserle” (literally “God Cheaters”) since they were used to hide meat during the times of fasting. Long story short – meat was missed in this version. The broth was too sweet and tasted distinctly of the root vegetables. I am convinced that if meat would have been used in this dish, it would have had more power, oomph, umami and some more salt which would have made the dish much better. The roasted onions where a nice addition and did balance the sweetness out a bit.

Main course were some home made fish sticks, with cream spinach and boiled potatoes. The pike perch sticks were nicely breaded, potatoes and cream spinach expertly cooked – strong dish, but like most people not quite as good as the one Mum would make when you came back from school for lunch.

Overall I was slightly disappointed. The expectations the interior and menu sets is fantastic. It’s a cozy owner run place, strong & carefully selected products, simple menu but the food was just okay. This place has the chance of becoming a fantastic addition to Zurich’s dining scene if they fine-tune the menu.