Schloss Schauenstein, Fürstenau, Graubünden

May
2010

30. May 2010

Aperohäppchen (Apfel-Rukola-Salat - Flamkuchen;Makrele,Senfhonig - Rindstartar, Kapern - Lauchsuppe, Kartoffel, Gamba - Kalbsschwanzbeignet)

Amuse bouche (Gänseleber; Mousse, Eis - Gänseleberpralinée - Jogurt, Chip, Schaum, Krokant - Zitronenconfit - Gänseleber; gebraten)

Brötli

Thunfisch; gegrillt mariniert, gefüllt - Rettich; mariniert - Asia-Gewürzemulsion

Langustine; gebraten, Ragout - Avakadocreme - Curry; Emulsion, Schaum - Asia Marinade - Gewürzcouscous - Krustengrissini

Kartoffelflan; caramelisiert - Petersilienpürée - Weisser Trüffel; gehobelt, Schaum - Kalbsmilken; gebraten - Kalbsfilet; Tartar

Makrele - Senf;Eis, Vinaigrette, Emulsion - Fenchel

Jakobsmuschel; roh, gebraten - Zwyer Caviar - Rote-Beete; roh, gekocht, Merengues - Crème fraiche

Saibling; leicht gegart - Kürbis; eingelegt, Purée - Estragon; Beurre Blanc, Emulsion, Chips - Pak Choi

Lamm; gebraten, Ragout - Aubergine-Caviar - Kicherererbsenpralinen

Taube; gebraten, geschmort - Karotte; püriert, geschmort - Ananas; gepfeffert, Chutney

Beveriner Rahmkäse; Feigensenf - Präzerkäse; Preiselbeeren - Suferser-Ziegenkäse; Traubenmostsenf - Fromagella; Dörraprikosenpurée - Bündner Alpkäse; Salsiz

Zitrusfrüchte; confiert, Sorbet, Salat - Mandelstreusel

Schokolade; pulverisiert, Kuchen, Streusel - Bananeneis - Passionsfrucht;Panna-Cotta, Meringue

After literally weeks of trying I finally managed to secure a room and a table at the Schloss Schauenstein. Located in the Domleschg, you take the train to Thusis and the pickup service will drive you to Fürstenau where the Schloss Schauenstein is located. The place is pretty amazing, tastefully refurbished chateau, located on a small rise in the village, surrounded by houses and a small park. The rooms aren’t cheap but certainly are individual and elegant, like you’d expect it at a boutique hotel. Dinner starts by grabbing a drink in the dedicated bar room and snacking on some tibits prepared by the kitchen. If people ask me about fine dining and what makes it so excellent I fall back to the example of a beefsteak tartare with fries and a sauce. If you’re in a restaurant and one of the items is really good, you might actually remember the place. If two of the items are good you’ll think of coming back and if all three are great you’ll like the place and you would recommend the restaurant in question to your friends. Now in a top notch restaurant that beefsteak tartare with fries and sauce is just one small part of a group of components in a larger dish, but still matches the quality of that restaurant you would recommend. One of the tasty tibits was a tartare in a crunchy cornet (reminds me a bit of Thomas Keller’s French Laundry style) and nicely fits into the mentioned example. A lovely tartare, expertly seasoned matched by the crunchiness of the cornet makes this a perfect small bite. The love in every detail here is stunning and even though it looks like just a small cocktail snack, it’s simplicity and beauty are hard to match. And that was just one of the small bits served while you look at the menu and made up your mind. A nice touch is that with every dish you get a small card which says what you’re eating. The same cards explain in the bathroom the rationale behind “Fuck like a beast”…. The food is light, creative with impeccable detail and love. The favorite dish was a saibling. The only thing at this level which was a bit strange, was that the same herbs were reused multiple times (maybe a concession to winter) and the cheeses weren’t as exciting as I would have liked the to be, as an example a extra spicy (extra rezent) Lumbreiner has more Oomph than the selection here. Still this is my absolute, undisputed, new gourmet heaven in Switzerland. To let the evening slowly end, head up to the room with the fireplace, smoke a cigar, have a digestif and read a book. You’ll feel like at your imaginary grandparents place. Funny thing was that the next morning when Andreas Caminada himself drove us to the train station and I stated that his job must be tough, he just smiled at us and said yes, especially if you’re out until 4 AM and have to work again at nine. My kind of guy. Unfortunately not quite my kind of bill (I did order every course possible):

Rechnung

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