Greulich, Hermann-Greulich-Str, Zurich

Brot, Anke und Kresse

Selleriesüppchen, Wachtelbrust auf Stangensellerie und schwarze Nuss

Confierter Lachs mit Randen

Hirsch mit Maisschnitte und Rotkraut

The Greulich has a new head chef, which also brought a new type of cuisine. Instead of the flavours of Catalan, we’re now closer to home, echoing a trend of increased localisation in our globalised world. Feeling like experiencing what the new guy has to offer, I opt for the menu. Bread is accompanied by a small bouquet of cress and a pair of scissors. Slathering butter onto the bread, cutting the cress and sprinkling it on top makes a nice little amuse bouche. The quail breast was lacking a tad of crunch and I’m not a big believer of the brown nuts. But the frothy and airy celeriac soup more than compensated. The fish course was of very high quality, combined with beets and slightly comfitted, a masterpiece. The wine flight served with the meal made it obvious what was going to be the man course. The gingerbread aroma of the red wine called for venison and that was excatly what was being served. Perfectly executed, paired with a nice red cabbage, only the polenta bread didn’t satisfy me. I really liked the new Greulich, serving a modern, no thrills take on local swiss foods, with clean flavours, made me happy. Prices:

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