Cantinetta Antinori, Augustinergasse, Zurich
Apr
2012
Hausgemachte Nudeln mit Spargeln, Lachs und Rahmsauce
Kalbskotelette mit Risotto
Rechnung
Cantinetta Antinori near the Paradeplatz is claiming to offer simple dishes of high quality. Taking into account that the german language in Switzerland sports a level of modesty, this would translate to outstanding quality in an english speaking country. It’s based on a collaboration between Zurich’s italian restauranteur Bindella, who’s been distributing the wines from the Antinori vineyards since back in the 50ties and the Antinori family who owns a likewise named restaurant in Firenze. The story sounds good to make this like a great place for world-class italian dining and as an additional plus it’s open on Sundays.
The first dish from the seasonal menu are homemade noodles with salmon, asparagus and cream. This dish sported a rather brutish touch. Cream could have a certain elegance but with asparagus and noodles which are on the soft-side you get more of a german nudel dish than a perky and fresh pasta combination which goes nicely with spring. Main course was a veal chop cooked with sage and risotto. The veal chop was rather average, displaying a nice sear and crust, but not as exciting in terms of taste. The risotto was pretty nice, having a good balance of bite on the rice and creaminess.
Did the restaurant live up to it’s claim ? Somewhat. The dishes were made up of a few simple ingredients. They did however fall short on flavor combinations, excitement and truly stunning quality. Taking this into account and the fact that you pay top-notch prices, it’s a hard argument to make why you should spend your time here, most average italian restaurants will have a similar offering. The co-diner prefers Cantinetta to Italia for Sunday night dinner, your aging food critic sees it the other way around and this decisively.
23/04/2012 at 05:33
I fail to see the point of this review. First of all, not a word is said about essentials like the wine list, service, atmosphere, menu etc. How can I decide if I want to eat there with such basic information lacking?
All you’re really saying is that you find a traditional Italian food unexciting. What did you expect from a veal chop served in a restaurant devoted to classic Italian cuisine? Wasabi-infused? Your article reminds me of a music critic who is into punk and writes a negative review about a classic rock band. Wrong guy at the wrong place.
23/04/2012 at 09:16
Even a punk music critic would be dismayed if the rock band is off-key and the drummer all over the place. Simple cuisine is great but needs to rely on stellar products, perfect craftsmanship and an utmost respect for the ingredients. This was true for the risotto but neither for the appetizer nor for the veal chop.
24/04/2012 at 05:51
So where in your meal were the products not treated with respect? Adding cream to asparagus or salmon is classic. They don’t use any convinience products, everything is made from scratch, they didn’t add canned corn to the pasta or something like that.
And saying that Antinori doesn’t deliver on the product side is completely inconsistent with what I’ve experienced during my many meals I enjoyed there. Was the veal tough? Or did it have a nasty taste? The meats, lamb, beef, veal … have always been first-rate, tender, seasoned with restraint and perfectly cooked. Same goes for their breads, fish, desserts etc. And they’ve maintained this high standard for years. With their concept and the clients they’re going after, cutting the product quality would have lead to failure years ago.
I found it quite nonchalant to slam a restaurant with such a reputation based on nothing but some cryptic issues and then come to the conclusion that this restaurant isn’t recommended. I respect your opinion but your review doesn’t explain at all how it was formed.
17/05/2012 at 15:52
“Slamming” would be something else… The main argument is that it’s pretty average and if you look at their claim they make on their web sites (http://www.cantinetta-antinori.com/sezione1.php?IdSez1=2&lan=ing) I’d expect more than average.
23/04/2012 at 05:50
Hi there…I enjoy your blog immensly. But I wonder if – with the new design – pictures are no longer put up? Or do I simply not know where to find them? Thanks, I wish you an ongoing – en Guete! and best regards
23/04/2012 at 11:23
I was disappointed to read the negative review here, as in my view Cantinetti Antinori is one of the best restaurants in Zurich! They do simple, rustic Italian dishes very well using fresh, high quality ingredients. The ambiance is wonderful – white linen, yet relaxed, warm and familial. Perfect for a leisurely Sunday lunch or romantic evening meal.
To really appreciate their cuisine, I would order from the dedicated truffle menu, which has some absolutely beautiful dishes. The simple noodle in truffle cream sauce is a true delight. For antipasti, we usually order the melt in the mouth parma ham and creamy mozarella – simple and delicious.
I will definitely be going back!
23/04/2012 at 17:44
Best caprese salad in town with marvellous datterini tomates. Always perfect scaloppine al limone con tagliolini and not to forget about the rombo and branzino (don’t ask me how these are called in english). One of the few restaurants in Zurich which I never left disappointed. Although, there might of course be italian restaurants with a more attractive price/quality ratio, but one also pays for the location close to Bahnhofstrasse.
17/05/2012 at 15:54
Funny – my colleague actually had scaloppine al limone con tagliolini and was very happy with it.