Restaurant Hopfenau, Hopfenstrasse, Zurich

Mar
2013

25. March 2013
  • Restaurant Hopfenau, Hopfenstrasse, Zurich
    Kalbsmilke mir Erbsenrisotto
  • Restaurant Hopfenau, Hopfenstrasse, Zurich
    Rindsschmorbraten
  • Restaurant Hopfenau, Hopfenstrasse, Zurich
    Tobleronemousse
  • Restaurant Hopfenau, Hopfenstrasse, Zurich
    Rechnung

One restaurant closes and the next one opens a concept introduced as the “Circle of Life” by the great philosopher and faux hair piece connaisseur Elton John. Delmonico is moving and only weeks later the new Hopfenau opens. Interesting how just a few changes make the interior look rustic and homey, a real Quartierbeiz. The menu is refreshingly small, with five apps and mains each.
First dish was a slice of sweetbreads with a pea risotto. The risotto was undercooked, but the sweetbreads were fantastic. The slight crunch on the exterior was simply perfect. Interesting when I pointed out that the risotto was undercooked, the waitress returned later and apologized, the chef apparently tasted it and agreed with my judgement. Main course was a slow-braised beef with braised vegetables and sweet chestnuts. My gripes with this dish was, that the chestnuts certainly aren’t seasonal, the vegetables seemed more sauteed than braised and the sauce (albeit good in taste) had overreduced and was on the salty side. To be fair the meat was delicious and the portion hearty.
My dinner finished with a lovely Toblerone mousse, which was a great little nugget to find on a dessert menu. Overall I think this is a really good new restaurant and the small details are all easy fixes. The biggest gripe would be that the call their menu fresh, local and seasonal yet have at least two dishes which contains chestnuts (marroni), that sends a slighly conflicting message. Otherwise they handled the risotto situation perfectly, even comped me the dessert. This is a place with potential and even on a slow tuesday night it was already almost half full. Some small adjustments and this neighborhood eatery will become a hotspot.

2 Comments

  1. Danke für den spannenden Bericht. Es steht bei mir zu Oberst auf der “Ausprobierliste”.

  2. Danke für den spannenden Bericht. Es steht bei mir zu Oberst auf der “Ausprobierliste”. Dieses Mal mit dem richtigen Link.

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