Wild Bar, Militärstrasse, Zurich

The former Ciro has been repurposed for a few weeks and is now an intruiguing pop-up called Wild Bar. The interior is not just wild but also slightly psychodelic, ecclectic mix of black and white wallpapers, carpet and mirrors. It’s a mix of bar and restaurant. While I like the Gabriel glasses, the wine list is not for everyone – it’s full of natural wines, something you have to be a fan of. The menu is small and features a rather surprising mix of dishes – we ordered (almost) everything.

As in most ventures of Vale Fritz – the bread and butter is stunning. I’ve no idea where the he sources his products from, but it’s nice to see that the Wild bar joint venture stays in this tradition. More show than substance was the “Atemwechsel” a nitrogen frozen piece of red cabbage and a sauce dollop on top – high points on the fun scale! Similar with the calf brain beignet, fun presentation and idea, okay in terms of taste.

The highlight was the foie gras served with a bit of apple gastrique and perfectly roasted bread! This dish alone will make me come back. The other courses were all fun and tasty, but didn’t quite reach the level of the foie gras, a special mention to the wood sardines served with a smoking pine tree branch.

The Wild bar offers something which is seldomly found – fun food with an attitude! Yes, I’m not big on natural wines, but with some help you’ll find something you’ll like. Otherwise it’s a good mix of very different dishes and most are very pleasing. 98% of diners will be happy and will love the experience. The other 2% were expecting something else.