Warenhaus, Sihlstrasse, Zurich

Vreni Giger – renowned chef with critical acclaim – is invovled in a pop-up named Warenhaus. I fondly remember a great meal at her former chef’s table in St. Gallen and felt excited to have dinner at this establishment. Entering the former OVS shop is quite an interesting experience. In the basement there’s a cloak room and a large club and bar; with art that borders on the disturbing side. But – it’s a good fit for an urban music club and if I were 20 years younger would have been thrilled to go clubbing.

The escalators take you up two floors to the “Kantine” (canteen). It’s has a very novel vibe, everything’s super bright and you’ll have the occasional naked butt of a display dummy peeking at you. You’re seated at a table with a tray, cutlery and glasses. Service is not super-smooth yet, but eventually we understand the concept: Main course is served, appetizers and desserts are self-service.

We get up and look at the appetizers, which are on display next to the sandwich counter behind the elevator. Different options are served in a glass, chilled and each with your choice of dressing. The two best options were a trio of endivies and a celeriac cheesecake. Two nice little fun options, while the orange bagel burger was too difficult to eat by hand and a bit of a mess.

Now we started to feel a bit more uneasy. As the novelty of the location starts to wear off quickly, it becomes more and more uncomfortable. Essentially we sit in an upscale department store cafeteria and it can’t hide the fact. People are walking by and having a look as if we’re animals at the zoo. Secondly chairs and interiors, especially the trays, enforce the cafeteria groove. The service is trying but it all feels a tad strained.

The main course can’t hide the fact either that this is a catering event. Entrecote so-so (meat not seasoned enough and on the dry side) side dishes are okay, but nothing that will rock your boat. Especially if you’re thinking “Vreni Giger” you’ll feel disappointed. Desserts are okay, but not thrilling. It’s the same challenge as with the appetizers, presentation is key to a great experience. Everything is served in a chilled high glass and screams efficient catering pre-production, but not high-precision restaurant cuisine.

Lastly there’s the issue of price. At approx. 200 CHF for two incl. drinks, it’s absolutely comparable to a regular restaurant (we had 2 glasses of wine, but no bottle). But – this isn’t a regular restaurant, it’s a concept executed a professional catering company (the one with the infamous sausages at Letzigrund). The place has it’s merit for a quick lunch during the work week in a surprising location. But spending a Saturday night here, will leave you slightly confused by the idea and disappointed by the lack of feeling Vreni Gigers signature. If you’re looking for the real experience, go to her restaurant at the Rigiblick. Or stick to clubbing (and drinking) downstairs at the basement.